Sunday, April 5, 2015



DESTINATION: SEA KAYAK


Heaven on water?
„Charming, ancient harbors dot Croatia's stunning coastlines and islands, which take a backseat to no other Mediterranean shore, and a wilder side can be found in Kornati National Park, where campers bed down on islands used by herders for 2,000 years. Paddling coastal Croatia's almost unimaginably blue waters leads wanderers through a delightful maze of more than 1,200 islands. Some 70 of them are inhabited, and like Croatia's mainland communities, their culture reflects the country's intriguing location between Central Europe and the Balkans.“

Komiza
 – This is how National Geographic Travel puts sea kayaking in Croatia among Top 10 Mediterranean Adventures. But why? Well, the answer is simply because the east side of the Adriatic sea is there the way it is and it has only taken some time for it to start being discovered and recognized by (foreign) adventurers, recreational kayakers and particularly by local community whose majority still have no clue what exactly sea kayaking really is. Tourist „experts“ included.

Free your mind
When I was child there were boats we called gondolas or sandolinas for rent and we, usually boys, would sometimes somehow find just enough money to go for an hour or two paddling along city's beaches. Those boats were in fact very primitive form of kayak and occasionally they were even equipped with air pockets which kept them on the surface when you capsized. One fine day a friend and I turned over some 60 meters from the beach and the gondola sunk to the bottom around six meters below us. We were perhaps 12 years old at the time and we had no choice but to dive to the boat and push it on the bottom enough times till we could finally grab it. Only by then most of our rental time was gone and that was it, but the connection was made. As years went on I would see kayakers from other countries who seemed to be pleased by their navigation in our waters.

Once upon a time in Lastovo
Three decades later sea kayaking is still not a big thing in Croatia; locals now have some (faint) idea what it is but very few people actually do it. But the active ones are aware of the beauty surrounding them. Thanks to our predecessors who arrived long long ago here where the East meets West, North meets South and the land is married to the sea, we enjoy the privilege of being born and living in one of the finest corners of the Mediterranean.

Hvar
The nature on the other hand did everything else giving us so many reasons to admire and cherish its creation on daily basis. Scattered islands and islets moored in crystal water, numerous coves and pebble beaches, caves and lagoons, lovely towns and villages, lush vegetation and bare rocks, turbulent past and ancient (pre)history, myths and legends, gastronomy, wine, hard work and leisure, culture and adventure...it's all here and much more...

Wine not?
So many islands are unlikely to leave you indifferent; their number is such that anyone after exploring the Mediterranean spirit is bound to find the perfect one, be it among northern ones or, say, Kornati national park with incredible diversity of marine life, bare vertical cliffs and almost unimaginable quantity of rocks hiding little oases of olive groves, or authentic taverns few meters from the sea. North Dalmatia around Šibenik is abundant with little islands and islets, the bay of Šibenik is one of the most protected harbors in the world while the region of Split is entrance to even more colorful ambience of islands like Brač, Hvar and Vis. Further south the climate is almost subtropical in Korčula and Mljet, vegetation of those islands as well as the Elafiti group is lush, the land is fertile, the water is warmer...

Mljet
The currents that pour in from the Mediterranean flow in the Adriatic sea roughly speaking up along „our“ side and bring fresh supply of water which is to a great extent responsible for the amazing transparency of the water while later on they go down the Italian side. And who knows, it might have been these currents that backed up with jugo (southeast wind) brought Odyssey away from Ithaca into the Adriatic more than three millennia ago and he possible liked it so much that he kept prolonging his return. Although those currents aren't too strong and tidal oscillations pose no threat to navigation nevertheless the sea demands respect and caution if only for micro-climate conditions which combined with summer storms must be taken seriously. But since nowadays weather forecast reports are easily available (there is mobile phone signal almost wherever you go), it only takes little common sense to make your paddling holiday safe and pleasant.

Red rocks
Breathtaking landscapes and charming little towns aside, this great archipelago stretching for about 300 nautical miles is unique in Europe for sea kayaking particularly from April to November and those who dare to do it whether on their own or through some specialized agency will doubtlessly have unforgettable discovery of the place and people living here.

Somewhere in Kornati
The kayaking possibilities are numerous anywhere between more touristy and solitary islands off the beaten routes and doing it you can spend a couple of hours to few months depending on how deeply you are addicted to it and how much time you have at your disposal. Along the way you can combine camping, private accommodation and small luxury hotels again proportionally to your preferences and lifestyle. Or why not stay onboard a boat that cruises the most attractive areas where you can then leisurely explore the most attractive spots without worrying about the weather and the itinerary. In other words any way you chose to do it don’t wait too long - it will only get crowded one day.

A man and a donkey know more than just a man (or donkey) - old Dalmatian saying
Sunny side of  Hvar
Hard life
Tipically Adriatic
Abandoned olive oil rafinery
Old parts of olive oil press
Submarine pen from Yugoslav army
Odysseus cave 
High cliffs, deep sea
There were even dolphins...
Sea level siesta
Do it yourself
Three is a crowd...