SO HVAR SO GOOD

islands

It's often that being local you get asked which island in central/south Dalmatia is the most beautiful...and I say they're all beautiful just different. Same same but different. Each one of them has certain dialects, tastes, architecture, history, character and so on to be anatomized into details.

Komiža

Vis has often been my silent favourite – somehow as if being made to fit man's needs; self-sustainable, not too big nor too small, with spectacular southern coastline and its fields, farms and households spread around the island. Vis and Komiža – two towns, two pearls, two different worlds...there are many reasons why one would go to Vis and fall in love with it at first sight, it could be that its remoteness makes it so desirable, tempting. And it works every way you look at it. Greeks from Siracusa have landed to its shores around 397 BC and it became their first colony in the Adriatic known as Issa.

Being close to Split island of Brač has usually, unexpectedly and definitely undeservedly, been just seen by many only onboard a ferry on the way to other islands. Brač and not Brak, how it's usually pronounced, (latter in Croatian meaning marriage), is slightly bigger then Malta which has around 420000 inhabitants, while Brač only around 20000.

Brač

Malta is over populated, Brač has a lot of space, green vegetation, fields, olive grooves, natural beauties, pictoresque towns and villages, events. Zlatni rat – famous beach is just a tip of Brač's charm, but let's not forget about Blaca monastery, village of Škrip, stonemasonry in Pučišća and so on...
 
Right opposite it on the west side there's another „dark horse“ called Šolta. The two are separated by strait known as „The gate of Split“ and share an islet of Mrduja and every year they tie ropes to it and „pull“ it to see which island is going to get it for a year – crazy local customs, what can you do...

Šolta

Šolta is not on the main tourist charts, it's ignored by crowds as well as massive sailors' attacks and perhaps it should embrace that situation and turn it (touristically speaking) into its adventage. But discretely, to those wishing to see beyond the obvious.

Korčula is in my heart – my love is from there and although I haven't explored it as much as I would like to or should - its contrasts, myths, wines...have drawn me for years and I only rarely indulged my curiosity more...until recently.

Korčula

The old town of Korčula itself is a little wonder having been built following the pattern of fishbone to use the flow of wind as a natural air conditioning to survive summer months...

Hvar rocks

Somewhere in between this „spread out archipelago“ lays the island of Hvar that got its name again from Greeks who came in 385/4 BC from their island of Paros to present-day Starigrad. They named it Faros. Locals still call Hvar town simply For.

Greek era

What is there to see, one can wonder...did you know that on the UNESCO's list of material and non-material cultural heritage Hvar island has three assets? Well, apart from its history dating back all the way to stone age culture, Ilirian and Greek era artefacts, Roman villas, architecture and works of art that flourished during Venetian period, breathtaking sceneries,old  towns and villages scattered around the island in harmony with landscape (the old folks knew how to do it), ports, bars, restaurants, parties, there is island itself in its natural, unadulterad and silent existence.

abandoned medieval? town on Hvar

 Of course this shouldn't be taken as a fact unconditionally due to man's interventions into nature that sometimes reaches little bit too far...but still the pure essence of Hvar emerges when the summer heat subsides...as if it regains its full lungs capacity. September come and grapes are ready for harvesting and then to be processed into wine. Not long after that it's olive harvest and the year is almost over.

vineyards and sights

Visitors are very few; only some return at this stage of island life to witness south east wind known as jugo (jug stands for south) blowing sometimes for days rolling on and over the hills (and peoples' minds making them grumpy) crashing the waves onto the south exposed rocky shores washing the beaches out with driftwood and unpaired plastic shoes. Nothing changed there for thousands of years since Odysseus spontaneously arrived to the Adriatic carried by jugo winds.

boates are like people

 Boats are pulled out for winter dream, only the most persistent and dedicated fishermen still navigate the waters in colder months. Past the New year Hvar shares the life of many other Adriatic and Mediterranean islands seemingly hibernating till spring when the nature and spirits awaken once again. Although winter temperatures are considerably higher then in the rest of continental Croatia, (not to mention the number of sunny days), apart from when bura (cold wind from northeast) is blowing, springtime is perhaps the most enjoyable to wander around the island's trails, it's when the scents of herbs and plants and colours are the most intense and alluring.

with a view to Vis

Days are getting tangibly longer, temperature rises, life is suddenly promising more miracles to come, new hopes are floating in the air...if you can spare one or two weeks before things start getting serious, (meaning the season and visitors coming in bigger numbers), don't think twice, just make sure the forecast is good and go – trails, caves, herbs, villages, churches and chapels, dry walls, pebbles, hills, vallies, fields, winds, coves, currents, scents, flavours, sounds, colours and so much more are out there... 

nice

more stones

spring is in the air

shepherd's shelter

 

as good as it gets

PICIGIN - ONE OF SPLIT'S SYMBOLS

flying circus

THE ART OF KEEPING THE BALL DRY UP IN THE AIR.

The history of this game dates back in 1920s and was `brought under regulations` in 1950s.

Picigin stands for Split contribution to evolution of homo ludens.

The most valuable competitive element of this original game is keeping the ball dry up in the air by implying the most artistic body movements while launching yourself through the air aiming for the ball – a sensational esthetic experience.

Done with all your tasks/chores, fulfilled all your obligations - what next? Have fun?...As a result of many different lifestyles, one has an array of possibilities; nevertheless I believe many would choose sport. Life is hard, so it's better to take it easy whenever we can. We don't know much what was going on before the written history, but from the available data peoples throughout the history have been using ball as sport equipment. And if we add evolution theory, one could actually say picigin is an evolutionary step forward when it comes to sports utilizing balls. Nevertheless, picigin is not an ordinary sport. The final aim in sport, especially professional one, is the element of victory, either of an individual or a team, bringing defeat to the other side, while picigin is not about winning or losing...


One cannot bet on the result of this game, there are no expenses, there are no terrain or player preparations, no sponsors, sometimes there is no audience as well, it takes place in a natural ambience on sandy beach called Bačvice, located within ten minutes walking distance from the harbour of Split, town of 180.000 inhabitants (according to some research a place offering ideal life quality). Although it would not be hard to contest this research information, if one takes into consideration `urban development` of Split in the past few decades – enlarged number of inhabitants, city being suffocated with concrete. Back in 1923 or 1924, hard-to-tame Split mentality created picigin on the beach Bačvice. Around 1950 number of the players was established – five players per team in a circle. Picigin player Emil Giosento was the first to peel off the felt of tennis ball and use its bald core as picigin – sole equipment of this popular game. It is a real miracle this `non-profit fooling around game` has managed to withstand the wheel of civilization.


Here is a list of secret ingredients for a good game of picigin, and maybe some unnecessary data:

- Origin of name: there are many theories, it is speculated it derives from Italian word `pizzicare` meaning pinch, nip, tweak, tingle, pluck, sting, bite...stands for something fluttery;
- A small ball: the most suiting colour would be black, not available in stores, so either make one or find appropriate one;
- Terrain: apart from more and more crowded Bačvice beach, there is an array of unexplored terrains, and the most attractive one for me would be a sandbank  in Kenya surrounded by sea, so during tide as sea level reaches ankle joint one can enjoy picigin in turquoise ocean waters without seeing the land near by;
- Favourable sea conditions; sea level not surpassing your ankle joint, calm sea (bonaca);
- Number of persons per team: five (but the right ones) standing in a circle;
- Circle positions in picigin: first runner, second runner, third runner, `quarterback`, `stopper` ( `Toni`): a1, a2, a3, a4 and Toni - Toni stands for Toni Veršić who always played in this position until he recently retired at the age of 80;
- Encounter with ball: should be soft, though not mushy, active and free; just set relaxed wide-open palm of your hand under the ball and hit it - hit the ball across the circle diagonally, change game direction, full power hit ahead-run-launch-dive, surprise hit;
- Launching/Diving: have the ability to fall into shallow water - slide with your body through water, let go and merge with water;
- Finally, the aim of the game: keep the ball dry up in the air; opened for discussion keeping in mind that nothing ever becomes real till it is experienced.

Picigin players cherish different styles. Though, it is a genuine pleasure watching, not to mention playing, with those who can play it by implying both sides of their brain, by using both hands. I remember an interview by the late great mind (not only regarding picigin) Tolja Kudrjavcev, published on two pages of a newspaper (I think it was Nedjeljna Dalmacija) with our sculptress that lived in New York under the title: `Fascinated by picigin`; a perspective of a woman and artist and her experience of watching these athletes running and launching their sculptured bodies above the surface of shallow water, flying and aiming for the ball; giving their best to make the perfect match with the ball. I remember my first game of picigin played with `professionals`: Dado, my ex-partner for picigin-in-two, and I were sneaking around the team of three Suvi, Fantom and Vera...somehow we found courage to ask if we could join them, the world stopped turning – Ok, position yourself in the circle...our hearts were racing, we started playing, we passed – not a penguin class, but heading towards the `professionals`.


The greatest pleasure is to play off summer or winter season, under the clouds, no wind, no audience...or early in the morning enjoy an energizing game before the crowd starts swarming the beach and mistral starts blowing. And then you have the whole day in front of you! Sometimes, we come across aggravated bathers, who actually of all beaches to go for a swim choose Bačvice, `trespassing` through the `magic ring` or trying to go around the `ring` finding themselves inside the `ring of fire`, completely unaware of possible collision (or the war of the two different worlds just like in Avatar) with players. Every player inside this `magic ring` has his own position, during the game these positions can interchange, but with intention of always returning to the original position. The same rule applies if the ball falls into the water. So, if you notice a random number of players in the shallow water running around in a circle in disorderly manner, even though it might be great fun for the players, that kind of game cannot be referred to as picigin. Genuine picigin players apart from having their own style, also experience the game in their own peculiar way. Amazing moments of this game where only sky is the limit when it comes to a wide range of game combinations every player perceives and cherishes differently ...I have no idea if time actually exists or we are just moving through space faster or more slowly, but when you, full speed, run for the ball, with uncertainty in the air, your body turns into intergalactic missile with only one target – the ball, swift as a lightning, you launch your body in the air, fly aiming for the ball, nothing exists anymore, just the palm of your hand and the ball trying to make the perfect match, all your senses are shut out, disconnected...having reached the highest peak of your `flight`, you drop down-dive, merge with water, the only thing left in the air is the palm of your hand, stretching out towards the ball, completely separated from your body and senses – you hit the ball somewhere between heaven and water...

The World Competition in Picigin has been going on for the past ten years, every June on Bačvice. Well, yeah, once in a year picigin turns into competition. Jury of expert picigin players evaluates the 15 minutes performance of teams taking into consideration their artistic impression as well...so they reach a `verdict` which Split team played the best and gained the title of the Champions of the Universe followed by party which goes into superfinals till small hours.

Few years ago when Michael Palin was making a documentary about the countries to enter EU he and his crew also came down to Bačvice and after watching picigin he said that it was only then he realised why Yugoslavia (at the time) had been the first non-english speaking country to show "Monty Python's Flying Circus".

So, when you put it all together, it does not matter if you are young, old, man or a woman; picigin one plays is either `penguin class` picigin or the genuine `professional` one.

From Hvar (Adventure) to Brazil and back to Split


There's a lot to say/share and I wonder how often people read nowdays and why somebody would read your thoughts. My guess is, to start with, that in order to draw somebody's attention you need to speak the way you see things (without too much filtering).


ilha grande

Many people go everywhere and do wonderful stuff, have extraordinary experiences but somehow it's only rarely the very best moments are captured on the camera or written down in a good way. A famous journalist and writer from Split, Miljenko Smoje, once said that his best interviews were those he never published.



ilha grande - port

As most religions speak of the same God from different perspectives, it's the same with the outdoor/adventure/active world. I've read some guidelines like: Plan Ahead and Prepare Travel and Camp on Safe Durable Surfaces Dispose of Waste Properly Leave What You Find Minimize Campfire Impacts Respect Wildlife Be Considerate of Other Visitors...

cachoeira

Ok, it makes sense, yet at the same
time we in CroActive Holidays have been doing that for years now, regardless of whether we go for a walk, set out on a day trip or multi-day expedition. Of course we've never left waste or mistreated wildlife or other travellers we met. Of course we planned ahead and so on...I mean, is there any other way to do it?



armadillo

Actually yes; there are people who heard about adventure sports and think anyone can do it. They see them as a way to make considerable profit in a cheap way with questionable equipment, inexperienced guides and the nature is but a coulisse to serve the purpose.

into the island's trails

It seems that today if you don't underline or emphasize some realy basic principles, like awareness for the nature, like breathing, you even seem to fall behind. Or not? Technology and tools change rapidly, communication is faster than ever, you must adapt fast or your business can be out before you know what's happened, trends in (adventure) tourism sometimes resemble those in fashion. People are after authentic experiences and those hardly ever come in a mass tourism more similar to fast food principle, which of course works globally. We in CroActive holidays aren't thrilled with it, whether as providers or when travelling ourselves. As agency offering sea kayaking, rock climbing, etc. our concept is to be contemporary and classical, updated and flexible, organized and creative, profitable and relaxed, exclusive but definitely accesible. 

 

Two years ago me and a friend called Top went to Brazil. How we ended up there, and why I just now thoght about it might not be a spectacular but interesting story to tell.

Heard of Daniel Lacko who did „Welcome“ project? If not, google it. Anyway he and other three friends were travelling down the Croatian coast by kayaks, bikes, on foot, writing with GPS the word WELCOME on the map thus promoting Croatia as a great country (and) for adventure activities. Hvar island was on their way and we happened to welcome them biking and kayaking together across the island with a spectacular landing in Hvar town. But earlier that day we'd had a commercial half a day kayak trip with a few Brazilians in it and as I was coordinating bikes/kayaks with Lacko, I thought we might ask Brazilians to join us for Welcome after their trip was over and right then Daria, our guide, who took the kayaking trip out that day called me with the same idea and so the Brazilians joined us and became „Our Brazilians“. In the evening we went all together to Malo Grablje village at Berti's konoba (tavern) Stori mlin and the circle of that whole day was completed. I saw the Brazilians next couple of days in Hvar town and they told me if I ever went to their country I should call them, stay with them and so on...



bamboo trail

unexpected scene in the jungle

Well, later that year me and Top set out to Brazil and we stayed with Fisch and Dani in Sao Paulo and went with them and their friends to the coast and then the two of us went on our own up the coast to end after two weeks in Rio and then reunite with them to go to the Serra de Montequeira mountains. We came to the town of Parati and from there to Ilha Grande, island covered with thick Mata Atlantica vegetation and a lot of water springs, beaches...Since it was earlier in December there weren't many people; the crowds come for Christmas, we found a hostel, we found Palma, an editor of the island's journal, whom a friend from Parati told us about and Palma proved to be a great guy and a source of useful information. We wanted to hike around the island and asked him what he thought about it 'cause there were no proper maps. He said to us we could do it, and the trails which were there for at least 500 years - the legacy of the Indios – the original inhabitants of the island, would be possible to navigate. The water was to be found along the way either in springs/waterfalls or villages so we left some of our stuff at Palma's and started walking.

Topao and hammock

cachoeira ii

Second morning we got up from our lightweight hammocks and went to a nearby river with the two guys from Rio we'd met the night before and they explained to us how to find „the trail less taken“ that led into the forbidden part of the island – protected natural area...but since we didn't come there as Portuguese conquerers centuries ago but as open-harted and curious travellers, we felt it natural to explore that „paraiso“. Up the hill we could see two long beaches laying ahead for kilometers and dense green jungle behind. We descended to the first beach of white sand alone in the tropical heaven and took a swim in the crystal morning water.



morning glory

where now?

Then the walking part in the sun took few hours and we got to a river that separated the two beaches. Good thing was the tide was low and we didn't have to worry about caymans while crossing it in search for where the trail went on. On the left we couldn't because of the hardly climbable and overgrown rocks; on the right were the mangroves and after half an hour or so we found the way and onto the second beach with more kilometers to tread in the hot sun...some hours later we came to the rocky part marking the end of the beach and I saw Top bit ahead approached by a seemingly angry man in uniform who turned out to be a ranger. It was obvious that by crossing restricted natural reserve area we were in a kind of offence and perhaps facing some consequences...and then to calm the man down I started explaining him im my pidgeon, yet evolving portuguese language our reasons. And I took out of the backpack (uma cosa muito importante) a plastic bag with our lixo – garbage, which told him, together with my mumbling and our perspired faces that we cared...and he let us go with a warning, handshake and smile...

 

looking for trail

kiss

 Anyway, the story continued, Top and I hiked on, crossed other islands, rivers, hills, encountered wildlife, met new people, people we had already met in other places, experienced a footbal match, survived some tough urban jungles and eventually returned home...



dream

There were many episodes and in each one we were exactly like back home with all of our virtues and few flaws maybe. We adapted to a new continent (to us) with respect and it paid off, so to speak. Things are very simple - follow instincts - it will sort out.                        

At the moment I'm sitting in our shop in Split forming new tours, trying to finish the ones I started and promote better those we know are SO GOOD but still invisible and so on. So my question is not just how to do all this but also how far we need to go when promoting our „virtues“. Do we also have to point out that in our business we, say, „leave only footprints“ and/or „plan ahead“ to be recognized and competitive...or simply be organized, experienced, responsible like we feel we are and leave something (that goes without saying) to happen the way it's supposed to. And then, provided we've done everything right, provided our clients feel the same „vibe“, the magic never fails, even if a trip lasts for few hours only. On the other hand, why be ashamed of things you know you do right,  right?


dawn

And that's not all. It has taken me ages to write and finish this story (but that's another story), and then a month ago in Korčula town I happened to be introduced to Viviana - Brazilian working as a masseur in a small luxury hotel known as Lešić - Dimitri Palace. Three years ago she had come to Croatia to friends' wedding, met a local guy and in the end decided to exchange Sao Paulo for Blato on Korčula island. It first turned out we knew the same people in Sao Paulo? (there's only about 20 million people there) and the next thing we established was that we had met in Hvar during the event described above - it just took us a little while to realize it. Any conclusion? - the world can be really small and everything is connected...we just need to see that...

By Pacho

Amazing day above white clouds

Getting to highest point, concurring another peak, amazing views I expect to see are just some of elements why I love hiking. To be honest, its been a while since my last hike. Work and season holidays kept me busy with different tasks, so it was hard to start hiking or cycling again with few extra holiday pounds.

But once I did it, there is always the same conclusion: there is no other thing I could have done better today. An epic hike to a peak not so high, but high enough to test my body and to give me some muscle pain. :)

The trail starts in Bosnia&Herzegovina from small village beneath Kamesnica mountain, about 70km drive from Split.

Kamešnica is a mountain in the Dinarides at the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia (Dalmatia). It is an extension of the Dinara that stretches from the northwest white road pass Vaganj (1173 m) to Buško Blato artificial lake. Two tallest peaks named Konj (Horse) (1855 m) belong to Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kurljaj (1809 m) belong to Croatia, yet have magnificent views of both sides of the border. During clear weather, climbers can see the most remote areas of theAdriatic Sea and its islands.

Thanks to its geographical position, Kamešnica is a favorable habitat for plant and animal species. It has many hiking paths and deep caves. The ecosystem of the northern parts of the mountain has been completely preserved due to its inaccessible and isolated location, and to the thick forest that surrounds it. Six or seven months per a year, most of Kamešnica's peaks are covered by snow.

But since this winter is very mild there was almost no snow at the highest peak "Konj", and the walk to the top was more than pleasant, specially after getting above the clouds.
The part of the trail goes through a dense forest, following a small river with tiny waterfalls. Amazing experience of nature with sounds of water and scent of fallen leafs.

And yes, once you are there on the top that is the reward, worth all the muscle pain... :)