DESTINATION: SEA KAYAK

Heaven on water?

„Charming, ancient harbors dot Croatia's stunning coastlines and islands, which take a backseat to no other Mediterranean shore, and a wilder side can be found in Kornati National Park, where campers bed down on islands used by herders for 2,000 years. Paddling coastal Croatia's almost unimaginably blue waters leads wanderers through a delightful maze of more than 1,200 islands. Some 70 of them are inhabited, and like Croatia's mainland communities, their culture reflects the country's intriguing location between Central Europe and the Balkans.“

Komiza

 – This is how National Geographic Travel puts sea kayaking in Croatia among Top 10 Mediterranean Adventures. But why? Well, the answer is simply because the east side of the Adriatic sea is there the way it is and it has only taken some time for it to start being discovered and recognized by (foreign) adventurers, recreational kayakers and particularly by local community whose majority still have no clue what exactly sea kayaking really is. Tourist „experts“ included.

Free your mind

When I was child there were boats we called gondolas or sandolinas for rent and we, usually boys, would sometimes somehow find just enough money to go for an hour or two paddling along city's beaches. Those boats were in fact very primitive form of kayak and occasionally they were even equipped with air pockets which kept them on the surface when you capsized. One fine day a friend and I turned over some 60 meters from the beach and the gondola sunk to the bottom around six meters below us. We were perhaps 12 years old at the time and we had no choice but to dive to the boat and push it on the bottom enough times till we could finally grab it. Only by then most of our rental time was gone and that was it, but the connection was made. As years went on I would see kayakers from other countries who seemed to be pleased by their navigation in our waters.

Once upon a time in Lastovo

Three decades later sea kayaking is still not a big thing in Croatia; locals now have some (faint) idea what it is but very few people actually do it. But the active ones are aware of the beauty surrounding them. Thanks to our predecessors who arrived long long ago here where the East meets West, North meets South and the land is married to the sea, we enjoy the privilege of being born and living in one of the finest corners of the Mediterranean.

Hvar

The nature on the other hand did everything else giving us so many reasons to admire and cherish its creation on daily basis. Scattered islands and islets moored in crystal water, numerous coves and pebble beaches, caves and lagoons, lovely towns and villages, lush vegetation and bare rocks, turbulent past and ancient (pre)history, myths and legends, gastronomy, wine, hard work and leisure, culture and adventure...it's all here and much more...

Wine not?

So many islands are unlikely to leave you indifferent; their number is such that anyone after exploring the Mediterranean spirit is bound to find the perfect one, be it among northern ones or, say, Kornati national park with incredible diversity of marine life, bare vertical cliffs and almost unimaginable quantity of rocks hiding little oases of olive groves, or authentic taverns few meters from the sea. North Dalmatia around Šibenik is abundant with little islands and islets, the bay of Šibenik is one of the most protected harbors in the world while the region of Split is entrance to even more colorful ambience of islands like Brač, Hvar and Vis. Further south the climate is almost subtropical in Korčula and Mljet, vegetation of those islands as well as the Elafiti group is lush, the land is fertile, the water is warmer...

Mljet

The currents that pour in from the Mediterranean flow in the Adriatic sea roughly speaking up along „our“ side and bring fresh supply of water which is to a great extent responsible for the amazing transparency of the water while later on they go down the Italian side. And who knows, it might have been these currents that backed up with jugo (southeast wind) brought Odyssey away from Ithaca into the Adriatic more than three millennia ago and he possible liked it so much that he kept prolonging his return. Although those currents aren't too strong and tidal oscillations pose no threat to navigation nevertheless the sea demands respect and caution if only for micro-climate conditions which combined with summer storms must be taken seriously. But since nowadays weather forecast reports are easily available (there is mobile phone signal almost wherever you go), it only takes little common sense to make your paddling holiday safe and pleasant.

Red rocks

Breathtaking landscapes and charming little towns aside, this great archipelago stretching for about 300 nautical miles is unique in Europe for sea kayaking particularly from April to November and those who dare to do it whether on their own or through some specialized agency will doubtlessly have unforgettable discovery of the place and people living here.

Somewhere in Kornati

The kayaking possibilities are numerous anywhere between more touristy and solitary islands off the beaten routes and doing it you can spend a couple of hours to few months depending on how deeply you are addicted to it and how much time you have at your disposal. Along the way you can combine camping, private accommodation and small luxury hotels again proportionally to your preferences and lifestyle. Or why not stay onboard a boat that cruises the most attractive areas where you can then leisurely explore the most attractive spots without worrying about the weather and the itinerary. In other words any way you chose to do it don’t wait too long - it will only get crowded one day.

A man and a donkey know more than just a man (or donkey) - old Dalmatian saying

Sunny side of  Hvar

Hard life

Tipically Adriatic

Abandoned olive oil rafinery

Old parts of olive oil press

Submarine pen from Yugoslav army

Odysseus cave 

High cliffs, deep sea

There were even dolphins...

Sea level siesta

Do it yourself

Three is a crowd...

                                            YOU HAPPY, ME HAPPY

Brač

                                                                                 
Tourism has changed many times and the process has at times been slower, other times of course more sudden, and it will continue that way whether we like it or not. As there are tourist workers with different approach to the matter, so it happens with the „objects’’ of their efforts – people who travel for all kinds of reasons and spend certain amount of time and means in a place, be it for pure pleasure or a business trip leaving them few hours or maybe more to treat themselves with whatever they like provided they find it. Nowadays unless constrained by an important meeting hardly anybody goes where they can't enjoy, be it a great music festival, superb food, authentic ambience, spectacular hike or something in particular anyway. And visitors are also viewed as either tourists or travelers where generally speaking tourists just follow patterns, guides with mikes, buy local souvenirs made in China, eat pizza in the main square and such, while travelers prefer discovering certain area through more spontaneous course of action, not necessarily knowing how long they will stay in a place or maybe simply by staying there longer than just 2 to 3 days which has come into fashion. As if you could see everything in a week or 10 days.

Lastovo

Proportionally the similar can be said about the providers: there are the ones who cheat on food or wine quality and source, window view, gear, etc., and those who are ready to give a client at least what they’ve paid for, and whenever possible with an added value. And naturally the most thriving ones are those in between staying happy as long as the numbers suit them.

Dalmatia

 
Despite the ever-changing tourism theories, realities and tourists’ habits, despite numerous divisions and subdivisions, one thing seems to stay the same – there are only two kinds of tourists: those who don’t care where they are and those who do, always willing to fathom as much as possible local ways and culture. The latter too come for a variety of reasons and if it is, say, scuba diving, they need more than just excellent and reliable equipment, they need an expert diver/guide who is able to tell them about the local history, mentality, who will point them in good direction and if there’s a great tavern or bar not listed in guidebooks or hard to find, tell them about it.

Hvar

The bottom line is that tourism can be dull and exhausting (when visitors become no more than figures), or it can be more demanding inspiring relationship for both sides.
But if you are a tourist/traveler and you would find a really good hotel, cozy apartment, family-run tavern where daily specialties vary in dependence of what’s fresh that morning in the green or fish market, little bar where relaxed locals hang out, shady trail leading to a secluded beach, refreshing adventure activity (something we do) how can you tell who is worth your energy when there’s so much competition, so many websites and other (internet) tools used by the providers?

Mediterranean: "Stranger, the law doesn't protect you here"

It takes two to tango, but meeting a perfect partner requires a recommendation by a someone who’s been there and done that or a focused research through extensive areas of advertising games. Other way is something we like to call pure coincidence – when things naturally start happening without too much planning, like when a thought or a click leads to another step and then suddenly it’s magic. Whichever path(s) you choose is of less importance– as long as it works!!

Cetina

And in the meantime leave your instincts active…

Mljet

Mons Vipera

view to a hill

It's a grey and rainy day in Korčula, jugo wind is showing its consistency and persistency in keepeing you inside...ideal for many indoor activities such as cooking, watching a film from a couch or brainstorming. Through the window and clouds I percieve the mountain of Zmijino brdo also known as Mons vipera (Viper's mountain) or Perun's mountain, and its peak Sveti Ilija.

across the sea

Its presence dominates the area of Pelješac and north-east side of Korčula island. It rises 961 m above sea level as a giant from some old tales not really interested in people but rather happy when left alone. Occasionally gets angry and then it's not a place to be there. But we all know that storms come and go and blue sky appears again as if it has never rained before. 

Orebić

A group of us, friends, went few weeks ago up there to spend a night in the so called hunters' cabin (half an hour walk from the top) and the forecast said it would rain at night. We contacted the local Mountaineering Club Sv. Ilija from Orebić to get the hut key and they said somebody was already up there so there was nothing to worry.

hike up

Our pace was moderate and we got there just in time to organize wood for fire and then after a grill and homemade wine right when we got into our sleeping bags the clouds swallowed the mountain and began pouring down its wet content. It felt nice being inside, protected. It seemed we were the only people in the world and I imagined us from say, a perspective of Korčula, when on such a day you only see two thirds of Ilija and the rest dissapears in the clouds like some lost and distant world. 

in the mountain

Wind gusts and showers went on whole night, and finally the morning cleared the sky so after breakfast we went to the top plateau to admire the view to the mainland and distant mountains of Croatia, Bosnia and Montenegro to the north and islands of Mljet, Korčula, Lastovo, Sušac, Vis, Hvar...on a day with a really good visibility it's possible to see the most remote islets of Palagruža and even the Italian coast. 

the ridge

Spectacular landscape includes the ridge of the peninsula of Pelješac itself resembling a long and jagged dormant beast winding and streching for 65 kilometers. If one wanted to venture into exploring numerous coves, fields, vineyards, taverns and wine cellars, villages, not to mention history, it would take time but it's nice to know that there is always something new and different to come back to.

 

sage

   

prickly juniper

Like this mountain; from its foothill you mostly see rock and little greenery and when you start ascending it, like we did, taking the east, steeper trail, it is fascinating how suddenly you're walking surrounded by trees and when you arrive to the plateau leading to the cabin it is even more green and fertile then expected, tall, mighty black pines stand in harmony with hibernating sage and prickly juniper forming such a delighting scene that you soon start thinking you have to be back in springtime when they are blooming.

black Dalmatian pines

As for the animal world the most common is to spot moufflons, but they share the mountain with more elusive jackals, boars, rabbits, falcons, hawks, vipers, owls, pheasants, grouses, and many other birds species. Seeing hoarses roaming some lower parts of the mountain is no surprise either. In order to encounter some of the wildlife one should be silent, spend more time in the mountain or simply be lucky, perhaps armed with a binocular.

 

...because it's there...

The way down took us more to the west in a milder but longer trail, first through the trees and then it started turning back towards our starting point in Orebić with views opening once again to Korčula island and town with all the islets spread out in the strait. And then the chapel of Lady of Karmen and its cypresses gave us one more opportunity to stop for a moment and reflect on all the wonderful things and sights we've met along the way.

a view to Korčula and Lumbarda

To summarise, Sveti Ilija is a wild and beautiful mountain with good and marked trails, an ecological heaven only a couple of hours walk from the sea level, so if you happen to be in the area and have a „hiking problem“, that's a place to go, particularly in spring or autumn when conditions and temperatures are generally more favourable.

KORČULA AND THE FALL/WINTER OF 2014/2015

Vela Spila cave

It's off season and what can you do on the Black Korkyra island when the summer heat resides only in the photos or memories, crowds are gone, mainly to their northern, more permanent addresses , many restaurants and bars are closed, sun is not so bold or omnypresent anymore...Cold bora when blowing clears minds but also makes jackets come out of closets, jugo on the other hand is a warm wind but often goes hand in hand with rain that sometimes resembles monsoons. Still, many days are sunny and warm enough. So, the big question is again, what is there or here to do at this time of year?

 

The answer is simply YES. Ok, maybe no bar is open in the very old center of Korčula town, maybe connections with the rest of the world are not the most frequent ones, maybe days are short, maybe you don't find busy social life and so on...BUT, once you're here and start digging, a string of situations happen to emerge from somewhere as if drawn by some hard-to-detect force just being around all the time waiting to absorb and be absorbed.

The truth is everywhere around but mostly in the nature surrounding us and that seems like a great starting point to connect to the island or at least one way to do it. And not a hard one either...If you like to do these things on your own and don't need/know any locals willing to help you out, or they are engaged,  you can always get a map and get going out there searching for meditation in motion and mechanisms how our world came to be like we see it today. As it occurs so often, both mythology and past realities edited into the history through history still co-exist and overlap, sometimes helping each other out by pointing in the right direction.

Vela Spila cave

  Archeological findings in Vela Spila cave in Vela Luka testify about life on the island from the Ice age to present times. And the archeologists haven't reached the bottom yet which suggests that the origins of human existence in this area could go even further back than 20000 years. What we know today is that people that lived there changed, in the course of time, their way of life along with the climate changes that accompanied them. Some 18000 years ago sea level was 100 meters lower than today and Korčula was a mountain with the former Neretva river running along its northern parts. At the time the inhabitants of the cave were hunters but as the sea level rose around 10000 years B.C. they turned more to fishing and sea food.

Vela Spila cave

 To visit the cave, which is locked and closed out of the season contact Tourist office in Vela Luka or even better, the Center of culture exhibiting the archeological findings from the cave. Anyway it is 20 minute walk from the town to the cave and the path is marked so get the key and visit this place containing in its ambience pieces of what we are (made) today. And once you're up there a view to the bay of Vela Luka won't let you down....

Korčula's paths combine old macadams, dirt roads and single trails, ideal for hiking or mountain biking or both. These trails wind through the fields and grooves of olives, oaks, carobs, strawberry trees, cypresses, etc, although...scent of herbs now is not as enchanting as in springtime when most of them are blooming in all their colurful and odorous glory.

strawberry tree

 Occasionally you come across old stone houses, roofless and abandoned as if still longing for some better tomorrow, or skilfully renovated ones arresting your attention in the very moment you spot them. Every now and then view opens to imposing Sveti Ilija mountain across the narrow chanel to the peninsula of Pelješac.

vines in Lumbarda

In direction of Lumbarda olive trees give way to vines rooted in sandy soil for over two thousand years telling you inaudible tales of Greeks in the new world of yore that had seen their predecessors, Odysseus or Jason and his Argonauts navigating these waters more then a millenium before the Greek colonization of these parts.

Sveti Ilija mountain

Maybe little magical forest known as Kočje offers clues to some ancient mysteries, events or life on the island. But not without engaging your own fantasy. Situated near Žrnovo it's a nice walk to get there and lose yourself in the labyrinth of strangely shaped dolomite rocks overgrown with ivy, surrounded by holm oak, fern...flora is interwoven in a most delicate way with cave-like spaces between the rocks dressed in moss seemingly hiding some primordial secrets.

entering Kočje

 Although this protected area is relatively small it comes natural to spend few hours exploring its green corridors, aromatic herbs or looking for the „Fairies' spring“ that has water all year round but not easy to be found.

myrte

These trails pass through the orbits of two villages: Lumbarda and Žrnovo. Both are spread out and traditionally turned to fishing, wine and olive making, agriculture. Until concrete took over, stone was main building material, and local architecture used to create and follow some unwritten patterns that for centuries shaped houses, alleys, backyards, terraces, churches born in different periods and from different visions. Past and present, civilization and nature, people, animals, plants, all share this beautiful area within walking distance...
  

in Žrnovo village

 

around Lumbarda

jungle takes over

work of skillful hands

olive trees

around Žrnovo